Adventures new and old.

I have been amazed and somewhat overwhelmed by the response to the tales our our journey around Britain. It has attracted readers from around the world. I hope you have all enjoyed spending time with Catabout.

My personal adventures have continued, and for those who wish to find out more, you can read about them on Into the Unknown


If there are any of you out there who shared adventures with Catabout prior to 2007, either as owner or along for the ride, we would love to hear from you.

Fair winds.

Postscript

So here we are, back on dry land again. A house has so many rooms. So much space.

We are getting our land legs back and the weather seems to be heading for autumn. My body held up, although it was a close run thing at times, but perhaps our next adventure will  make a difference with that. And we survived two months living in a confined space without killing each other.

Both of us have our own special memories of the trip, but I think we are glad to be home. Once more round the island? Not for a while. On the other hand, going over to the continent seems attractive......

Over the next few days I'm going to tidy up the blog, putting in the missing photos, and create a page of highlights and low points. Come back and look if you wish, otherwise thanks for reading, and I hope it gave you as much pleasure as it did to me in creating it.

Home again, home again, jiggetty jig

We are back in Tollesbury! We did it. A week later than planned, but hey, who's counting.

Robin arrived back in Dover by train on Friday afternoon, so in the evening we left the marina. Outside Dover harbour the sea is quite confused because of the meeting of water flows down the North Sea and up the Channel. However this is Neap tides, where the flow is at its lowest, so it could have been worse. Neap tides are also popular with Channel swimmers. I saw one come in when on the seafront that morning, and many more were making their way across the 22 miles.

 Once we had dodged our way through the numerous ferries leaving and entering Dover harbour, we caught the tide up the channel to Ramsgate, anchoring for the night in Pegwell Bay, in the shelter of the harbour there.

Saturday morning saw us rounding North Foreland for the Thames Estuary crossing. The estuary if full of sandbanks, with shipping channels inbetween. Imagine spreading out your fingers and then pressing your hand firmly into damp sand. The resulting pattern is similar to that of the bottom of the estuary. Add in the big shipping that also uses these channels and the movement of the banks after every gale and you have the potential for a 'fun' time. The combination of wind and tides can lead to some very uncomfortable seas in a yacht.

We were lucky. A sunny day, neap tides, and light winds made a pleasant day's motor across. The sand banks and channels have some wonderfully evocative names: the Sunk, Knock John, Black Deep, Barrow Deep. We even got to do a little sailing as we approached the River Blackwater. Timewise we were under no pressure as the cill at Tollesbury did not have enough water over it until at least 7pm.

Picking off the local landmarks that said "home". First Gunfleet Sands Wind Farm. Then the now redundant Bradwell nuclear power station. The saxon built St Peter's Chapel on the Flats. The colourful beach huts at West Mersea. The traditional Thames barges out for a weekend sail from Maldon.

And suddenly there we were, going up the Fleet, and Woodrolfe Creek, back to Tollesbury, where all this began.

We did it.

White Cliffs of Dover

Had chance to mooch about Dover today, before Robin gets the train back home. The seafront has obviously been recently redone and looks very good. The Castle is English Heritage and looks like it's well worth a visit. As well as the medieval keep, there is a roman lighthouse and the Napoleonic cliff tunnels.

The town museum has a 3000 yr old ship that was dug up, and nearby are the remains of a Roman villa. Should be plenty to keep me occupied.

Robin went for a quick recce round the castle and took this shot looking down from the battlements:

Sorry about the colour, but the light was fading.

Gale warnings issued.

Sitting in Dover waiting for the gales to wear themselves out.

We set off this morning from Eastbourne, hoping to make Ramsgate tonight, with a view to crossing the Thames Estuary tomorrow.  No such luck. As we approached Dungeness, the radio beeped out a message from the coastguards: Gale Warnings.



Thames, issued on Sunday 29 August 2010 at 0350 UTC
     Northwesterly gale force 8 expected soon, veering northerly and increasing severe gale force 9 later
Dover, issued on Sunday 29 August 2010 at 0946 UTC
     Northwesterly gale force 8 imminent

Force 7 is bad enough in a yacht, 8 and 9 is beyond a joke. We had hoped to make it before the storms hit, but it wasn't to be.

So Robin is getting the train home, and I'm staying with Catabout until next weekend, when hopefully we can take her home.

 51 07.233'N  01 18.661' E

So near and yet so far

Out of Chichester Harbour at 7am this morning, and off further east down the coast, motoring all the way. We made good progress with the tide and it was a sunny day, so were feeling optomistic. We crossed the Greewich Meridien  at 2pm. But Catabout hasn't quite got enough boat speed to get us all the way passed Dungeness before the tide turned. As the Dover Straits are where the North Sea tides and English Channel tides come together, the timing is crucial, or you can find yourself going backwards.

So having rounded Beachy Head, we looked for somewhere to stop for the night. Rye, one of the Cinque Ports of old, but now silted up and available for a limited time each tide, was out of the question. Hastings is only suitable as an emergency anchorage, so we were left with Eastbourne Marina.

So we turned in towards the coast, passing large numbers of racing yachts, flying through the water at full speed. It turned out to be Eastbourne Regatta this weekend. The marina is entered by a pair of locks, big enough to take several vessels  at a time.  Once inside, the development is huge.

With just 100 miles to go, I don't now if we will make it in time to complete the circuit within our 58 days. Tomorrow's weather looks good, but Monday when we need to cross the Thames Estuary to get home is looking bad, with strong winds from the north west - just the direction we need to head in.
Fingers crossed.

50 47.474' N  00 19.563' E

Chichester

We escaped Portland on a gap in the weather in the afternoon and made for the Isle of Wight and the Solent. Motoring all the way, we made good progress, arriving at St Alban's Head at the change of direction of the tide, so as to minimise the problems going over St Alban's Ledge, which is notorious for overfalls and eddies.

As we neared, another yacht radioed us to check which was the best route, as he was unfamiliar with the area. Robin was able to reassure him, based on both the official almanac information and his own previous experience, that close in plus this state of the tide was the best option. It was a little rough, but not too bad.

We carried on passing the Jurassic Coast and Durdle Door, debating the point in the film, Far From the Madding Crowd, where Gabriel Oak's sheep went over the cliffs. The sun went down and we continued towards the Needles, where the tide caught us and we flew into the Solent. Trying to pick out the correct lights was confused a little by a firework display on the coast. We anchored off Yarmouth for a few hours rest, while the tide changed.

In the dawnlight we set off along the Solent, which is a very busy area. Southampton and Portsmouth ports , the naval base, ferries in all directions, and huge numbers of yachts all use this stretch of water.
We picked our way through, and passed the midwater forts and underwater barrier, to go to Chichester Harbour. This is a very pretty location, and we went up to Chichester Marina for the night. Robin went off to investigate Chichester, while I slept!

50 48.173' N  00 49.019' W

Henry VIII's Castle

Portland Roads has been a refuge for ships in bad weather for centuries, and control of the harbour area has been vital. During the sixteenth century when Henry was falling out with most of Europe because of his divorce from Katherine of Aragon and formation of the Church of England, a number of fortifications were built along the south coast to protect against invasion by the French and Spanish.

Some of these still stand, one being Portland Castle now in the hands of English Heritage. While our laundry dried at the Marina, we wandered around the castle, looking out of the gunports to see how it would have dominated the harbour. It remained armed and garrisoned for nearly 250 years, then serving as a prison, private house and military barracks and an embarkation point for the D-Day landings in the Second World War. Two of the big Phoenix  Caissons, intended for Mulberry Harbour are still at Castletown Pier.

The rain has stopped, but the wind is still strong.

Stormbound still

Portland Marina is huge. No other word for it. Because Chesil beach is at one side, westerly winds whip over, but you feel totally secure, and the pontoons are wide enough to walk on even in strong winds and rain - I know, I've tried.

The gales and strong winds will pass, but when? Can we find a window to get to the Solent, where we would be pretty well sheltered? Then to Brighton; then Ramsgate; then home. Sounds easy when you  say it like that, but so near and yet so far. At least a good rest.

Mad dash round Portland

When the fishing boat "Rachel" came back in to harbour, Robin checked with the crew and they reported the wind and waves were decreasing. A quick check on the weather reports and we were off. A short window should allow us around Portland Bill and maybe a little further to the Solent, if we sailed into the night.

The wind and waves were better than some we have experienced, but by no means ideal. At least it was sunny and dry. The fishermen had also advised going close in around the Bill to miss the 'Race' (turbulence where two conflicting tides from either side of the point meet up), otherwise it's 5 or 6 miles out, and no guarantee of good seas.

As we neared Portland, the waves were mountainous, breaking over Catabout, and coming at us beam on. But, as predicted the Race was further out, and we turned, leaving the waves to come from behind us as we passed the Bill. By this stage, I was being reminded by my body that stress and MS don't mix, so we opted for Portland Marina. As the seas lessened I made it to bed and Robin brought us safely to harbour.

50  34.364' N  02 27.141' W     211 miles to go

Effect of a good meal and a good sleep.

Feeling much more positive this morning after a good meal and a night spent in the inner harbour. We were rafted up to another yacht, a 54 foot Moody, who set off early this morning to round Portland and get back to the Solent. As a much bigger boat, it has a much greater speed through the water, and can handle conditions more than we can. Once they were gone, we tied up to the dock wall, remembering to allow for the drop in the tide.

Weather forecasts are  now our obsession, as we look for a window to allow us to get further home. The net is both a blessing and a curse, as there becomes so much information to wade through.

Meanwhile, Bridport/West Bay is nice enough to hole up in. There is a difference, to locals at least, between the two locations, but I can't work it out. It's a small holiday place, with a number of flats and apartments overlooking the sea to rent and a caravan park. There is a local fishing fleet  based in the tiny harbour, whose produce, scallops, we enjoyed last night, and a number of quayside cabins selling fresh caught fish and chips, plus other snack foods to the holidaymakers. A number of smaller boats offer day trips out into Lyme Bay or along to Lyme Regis, but are not operating at the moment. Something to do with the weather?

Another refugee from the storms, a small yacht trying to go the other way, towards Dartmouth, is now rafted up against us. She spent last night rafted to a fishing boat, which goes out every day whatever the weather.

Gales

The best part of last night was the firework display that went off at 1030pm on the harbour wall - we had a prime site for viewing. Kudos to the man who went out there in this weather and let them off. This makes our third firework display: Fowey, Brixham and Bridport.

Nature provided the fireworks for the rest of the night as the storm system passed over. Today is sunny and less windy, but the waves are still high, giving a half metre surge here in the harbour. More strong winds are forecast for later.

Robin is worried that we may be stuck here for a week, but that is one of the 'joys' of sailing, and a lesson for life, you have to deal with what is thrown at you. Personally, lack of sleep and the prospect of more storms, an uncomfortable night and more to follow, and I've gone off sailing. I can see why Ellen Macarthur wept sometimes on her round the world trip. And  unless the weather eases we may not make it home in our time allowed. 230 miles to go.

Ask me tomorrow and I will probably feel differently.

And this is August?

The forecast of gales along the channel and across southern England tonight made us look for a short hop that we could do before the  weather closes in. Rounding Portland Bill was out of the question. Catabout hasn't the boat speed to be sure of getting  past in time.There aren't very many safe harbours once you leave the eastern end of Lyme Bay behind.

Thankfully Bridport, at the northern end of Chesil Beach was an option. We have moved further in the homeward direction, but should be sheltered from the gales. Now its a case of sit it out until the next break in the weather.

The Round Britain Race I mentioned at the start of this blog is due to begin tomorrow from Cowes, round the Isle of Wight and east up the channel heading for Ireland. I don't envy them at all.

Tonight we are just hunkered down, with a bit of luck we may see Bridport itself sometime tomorrow, weather permitting.

50 42.563' N  02 45.848' W

Brixham, part of the English Riviera

At 2pm we slipped our mooring at Salcombe, filled up at the fuel pontoon and made for the open sea. Our intention was to round Start Point, then having the wind and waves behind us, cross Lyme Bay, round Portland Bill and anchor in Warbarrow Bay. The first hour or so would be uncomfortable, but thereafter alright, as the tide would be with us too, making for an OK passage.

The sea as we exited Salcombe was quite rough, and the motion unpleasant. For the first time on this trip, both Robin and I were 'stomach aware'. Even rounding Start Point, although better, Catabout was surfing the waves, and rolling from time to time. We looked at each other and then the chart, to review the options available to us. Meanwhile in the background the Coastguard were talking on the radio to a number of boats in difficulties.

Initially we considered Exmouth, but saw that Brixham, as well as being closer, was going less out of our way, so robin worked out our new route, changed our destination on our AIS transmission, and we headed for harbour. Brixham Marina were able to give us a berth, so at 7pm we tied up and settled down to review our progress and work out how far we could get before the weather closes in again.

50 24.015' N   03 30.492 ' W

Station not available

Another day stuck in port waiting for the winds to drop. Even if they drop here, the bad weather is gradually moving east, so we run the risk of catching it up as we head east. A dilemma.

It is raining, but we are snug in our floating home, with almost all mod cons. TV we haven't missed, but radio has been a frustrating experience. We brought a digital (DAB) radio with us, but more often than not around the UK the screen displays "station not available". Thankfully it also receives FM and longwave, so we've still been able to listen to something.

Ironically the internet has been our major source of the digital only stations. There is a long way to go before analogue radio is truly ready to be replaced.

So back to audio books and soduko.

Strong Wind Warning

 Looks like we are here for at least another day. The inshore waters forecast and coastal forecast both indicate strong winds for this area, and our next passage, across Lyme Bay, has no refuges once we set out if the weather is bad.

Strong winds are forecast

For coastal areas up to 12 miles offshore from 0600 UTC Thu 19 Aug until 0600 UTC Fri 20 Aug

24 hour forecast:

Wind -South or southwest 4 or 5 increasing 5 to 7.

Sea State-Moderate, becoming rough in west.

Weather-Showers then rain and drizzle.

Visibility-Good, becoming moderate or poor.

Outlook for the following 24 hours:

Wind-South or southwest 5 to 7, decreasing 4 or 5.

Sea State-Moderate or rough.

Weather-Rain or drizzle, fog patches.

Visibility-Moderate or poor, occasionally very poor.

 

Used today to stock up on various essential supplies: wine, sweets, ham, strawberries and cream. Oh and hydraulic oil for the steering system. Shoping is back to separate shops for separate things; no massive under one roof supermarket. So the butchers for ham, the winemerchants for wine, sweet shop for treats, general stores for the strawberries and cream.

On the water taxi we spotted a couple of boats we had seen in other ports. It is a small world.

Boats, boats everywhere.

Salcombe is dominated by the water, boats of all shapes and sizes, from expensive motor yachts to kayaks, and movement is constant. Like Venice, but with all the water moved out to the side. Water taxis and ferries whizz around, moving people from one place to another.

The town itself is fairly small, and easier to get around than Fowey, the hills here being gentler and more rounded. It is dominated by the holiday trade, many of the houses being second homes or holiday lets. The recent money squeeze, plus the positive actions by the local council should help stop places like this becoming ghost towns in the winter.

There are still a number of small traditional boatyards along Island St, mostly specialising in power boats or the local clinker built style. Close by are the chandlers, that sell real yachting stuff, unlike the high street that sells expensive yachting lookalike wear. Divers don't spend much, but yachties are even tighter.

The harbour master issues all visiting yachts with a bottle of phosphate free washing up liquid to help look after the local environment, and the book issued talks further about protecting the marine environment.

Sweet smell of home

One thing we have noticed going round the UK is the definite smell of the land, which definitely changes place by place. Each coast and each harbour has its own. Living on the land, and often in one place, we tend to lose contact with that part of our senses, although our pets recognise the scent of 'home'.


 Now that we have our noses filled with the smell of the sea during the day, approaching land, particularly if there is an off-shore wind, there is a recognisable smell. Scotland had a definite peaty smell, and as we approached North Cornwall from Ireland, Robin recognised the scent from his childhood.

As we move up the coast, there is a definite change, a hint of farm on the air.

So today we went on to Salcombe. A pretty harbour, whose sand bar was made famous was made famous in Tennyson's "Crossing of the Bar".It looks like a river estuary, but is in fact a sea water inlet. We moored at 6pm, picking up one of the visitor's buoys. Then dinner in the cockit, with a chilled bottle of wine, to the sound of Vaughan Williams, watching the sun set over the South Hams, Devon.

50 14.805' N  03 45.358' W

Fireworks

Today at the regatta was fun. All sorts of stuff going on in the town, the boats on the water all dressed up, the passage race from Falmouth came back. A passage race is like a reverse of a normal race, where you leave when you want, but have to be back at a certain place by a fixed time.The finish time is fixed for everyone, regardless of when you actually arrive. But too late and you are disqualified. So everyone leaves as late as they can to get the shortest passage time, keeping an eye on the other boats. To make things complicated, different types of boat have different handicaps....

Finish time approaches and all the boats pour in, hoping to get here just in time. The skill is in working out your route, time and tides to the nth degree, with just enough margin for the vagaries of the wind.

A brief visit by tender to Polruan, the more traditional un-gentrified cornish village facing Fowey across the river, before back to Catabout for  our evening meal and wait for the highlight of the day, the fireworks. At 9:30 the display began, and we were in a prime site, sitting on Catabout's coachroof and watching the spectacular effects. Watching fireworks from the water is magic.

Because of the shape of the harbour, we got a triple bang, as the sound echoed off the hillside behind us and off the slopes of Fowey. As the glow of the last rocket faded away, all the boats sounded their horns and hooters and the sublime madness filled the harbour.

Well worth staying for.

Enjoying Cornish Sunshine

A rest day, just mooching about Fowey, and puttering about in the tender. The August sunshine was warm on the skin, but not too hot, and the town full, but not overwhelmingly so. The streets are decorated with bunting, and many of the shop fronts are also given a festive trim. We got a newspaper to read for the first time in weeks.

We were planning to leave tomorrow morning, but as it is to be the start of Fowey Regatta Week, with events during the day and fireworks in the evening, we are staying another day. Many of the boats are covered in flags, known as being dressed overall, and the river is becoming a very colourful sight.

There are a group of three young men on the boat moored next to us who are preparing it for crossing the Atlantic in November. Everyone has their adventures and dreams.